Half Moon Bay State Park to Sunset State Beach, California

Saturday, May 17,2014

Half Moon Bay State Park to Sunset State Beach, California
76 miles

Sailing in to Santa Cruz

We had help to pack up this morning. Owen, a three year old from the neighbouring campsite paid us a visit.  He gave our tent a thorough inspection, was thrilled that he could stand up inside it and that we could not and brought us up to speed on all of the Transformers - good guys, bad guys and of course the antics of Optimus Prime.  He was a wonderful little man and we enjoyed the visit.  He was camping with his Dad, on their boys weekend, and Dad seemed so grateful that we had distracted Owen for a while that he offered us a place to stay later on done the road in Ventura.

It was a morning of firsts as we pedalled along a bike path on the headlands.  Our first pelican sighting, and our first fruit stand.  We could not resist stopping at the fruit stand to feast.  It was quite a timely stop.  As we purchased our cherries, Gabriel, as student from Berkeley in San Francisco rode up on his bike and purchased Apricots.  We began chatting and quickly negotiated a trade - half of our cherries for half of his apricots.   Delicious!

Speaking of firsts, we also experienced our first really strong tail wind.  IT WAS UNBELIEVABLE.  Before we knew it we were going an effortless 20 miles per hour.  We enjoyed the wind support for most of our morning ride and what a ride it was.  The route took us once again across grasslands, with steep drop offs to the ocean.

The views continued to be spectacular and we found we had to force ourselves to focus on the road.  It is so easy to be distracted by the view and before you know it a pothole has played havoc with your forward momentum!

Focus on the road ahead is a must!

We passed countless State Park beaches and each seemed to have their own sport:  hang-gliding, para-sailing, surf-sailing and we even rode by a radio operated glider club.

The Whale City Bakery Bar and Grill in Davenport was the locale for second breakfast.  It was the place to be as weekend cyclists by the dozens stopped for breaky.  We chatted with all kind of folk and once again felt motivated by the positive energy and good wishes that came our way.

After lunch, we began the final few miles to Santa Cruz and stumbled along a fantastic bike path leading to the sea wall into town.  Being the weekend, the seawall was busy.  As we rounded the bend, to the tourist area our senses were assaulted with the hustle and bustle of the Santa Cruz beach area.

If there had been any doubt before, we now knew we were in California.  We took it all in:

-kayaks
-sailboats
-stand up paddle boards
-surfers
-swimmers
-fishers
-walkers
-rollerbladers
-cyclists
-nude sunbathers
-kids cliff jumping
-boogie boards
-beach volleyball

....and whales, seals and otters!

We then rounded another corner and came upon the pier and seaside amusement park.  It was a beehive of activity and we enjoyed getting caught up in it.

We managed to get quite lost in Santa Cruz and found our way to a bike shop where the friendly staff helped us to get back on track.  We had quite a few miles to the next camp ground and it was time to get moving.

As we left Santa Cruz the area began to change.  We were once again in rolling hills and farmland.  It was easy riding.  As we approached, Sunset State Beach we passed acres of strawberry farms.  We could smell the strawberries in the air and as we set up camp we are backing on to fields of blooming flowers.

Hiker/biker campsite at Sunset State Beach

Giggle of the day:

We had spent far too much time exploring Santa Cruz and so it was quite late in the day when we began the search for a campsite.  A local in San Apto highly recommended a KOA up the road, so excitedly we rode in to the KOA only to be offered an $85 site.  Unfortunately, this KOA did not offer hiker/biker sites.  We just couldn't imagine paying that much money for a campsite, so we decided to move on.  The next State Park was full and once again speaking of firsts, it was a State Park that did not offer hiker biker sites.  We falsely assumed all State Parks accepted bikes.  I looked at the Park Ranger in disbelief as they turned us away, and muttered under my breath that it would be really nice if they put the FULL sign up at the bottom of the hill NOT at the top off the hill.  We really had no choice,  but to get back on the bikes.  I grumbled the whole way to the Sunset Beach turn-off and then we arrived at the check-in booth just as the sun was setting.  What a beautiful sunset.  We set up our tent in the dark and just as we were almost done another pair of cyclists rode in.  Guess what - they were grumbling, "how hard would it be to put the FULL sign at the bottom of the hill!"

San Francisco to Half Moon Bay State Beach, California

The Streets of San Francisco

Friday, May 16, 2014
San Francisco to Half Moon Bay State Beach, California
36 miles

I woke up early in the morning because of a disgusting smell in our room.  Fearing a dead animal, I tentatively looked around, only to realize that the disgusting smell was our gear!  So, we got moving bright and early and made our way to The Missing Sock laundry mat in the Presidio area of San Francisco.  I am sure others will tell more glamorous stories of their visits to San Fran, but as Rob always says, "the key to happiness is clean, dry socks" and so we found ourselves doing laundry.

Dressed for success in clean clothes we spent the majority of the day exploring San Fran.  We explored the Presidio - even more impressive in daylight and made our way back to the bridge to spend just a few more minutes taking it all in.  The weather was glorious so we had great views of downtown, the bridge, Alcatraz and the Bay Area.

Time flew by all too quickly, and we knew we needed to get back on our bikes if we were to make Half Moon Bay by dark, so we bid farewell to San Francisco and began to negotiate our way back to Highway 1 and the coastal route south.

We left the Bay and hit the breakers where we found a wonderful bike path along the beach.  Our only obstacle was sand....we would be flying along when all of a sudden sand would be covering the path and we grind to a full stop.  What a fantastic problem to have.

On our way out of town we stopped in to Fort Funston which appeared to be the epicentre for hang-gliding.  We were fascinated as we watched the hang gliders soar above the ocean.  We watched a successful launch and a not so successful landing.  Great stuff!

Fort Funston - home of the Fellow Feathers Hang Gliding Club

On our final leg along the coast we were stopped double checking directions, when yet another stranger offered help.  He was in the middle of his work out, yet took the time to chat.  He gave us great directions for an upcoming bike path and some tips on ways to face the Devil's Slide, including a mile long downhill run through a tunnel - complete with a large bike friendly shoulder.

After surviving Devil's Slide it was clear sailing to the campground.....big shoulders, bike paths and FLAT.  We find ourselves camped once again beside the beach with the sound of the waves crashing in.

Hiker.biker site at Half Moon Bay

Giggle of the day:

As we were wondering the streets of San Francisco, we literally bumped into Andy and Taylor, the outdoor educators we had shared a campsite with on the Avenue of Giants.  We exchanged hearty handshakes and laughed....what are the odds of meeting again in downtown San Francisco!

Bodega Dunes State Beach to San Francisco, California

The Golden Gate Bridge

Thursday, May 15, 2014
Bodega Dunes State Beach to San Francisco, California
80 miles

AWESOME!

Just when you think things can't get better - they do!  The weather is holding, we are getting stronger, the really monster hill climbs are behind us and our goal of reaching the Golden Gate Bridge is within reach.  We woke up feeling optimistic and excited to put in a long day and make a push for the Bridge.

The Birds Cafe - Bodega Bay

Our day began with another roller coaster ride along Bodega Bay and then through farmland.  Traffic was really quiet, so we had time to relax and enjoy the ride.  We were riding strong when the POPS SAG vehicle passed us.  We had vowed not to stop to eat or rest until that van passed us.  We were determined that they would see us RIDING!

Against all odds, we arrived in a little town named Tomales and reunited with the POPs riders, the SAG crew and our favourite gals - Marie and Sophie. The POPs gang showed great hospitality and broke out the cookies and a round of ice cold water.  It was an inspiring break as we all laughed and gorged on cookies!

Sharing a laugh with Marie and Sophie

For the rest of the morning we rode together, and were even joined by another SAG vehicle and
riders who were on a guided tour.  We became known as Canada - and every time a rider passed us we get a hearty GO CANADA GO.  The camaraderie was great - and it helped Rob and I to pick up our pace.  (not that we are competitive).

Point Reyes Station served as our picnic lunch spot, and as an added touch we decided on a chocolate blast to ensure we would reach the Bridge.  Enough said about chocolate!

Guilt free chocolate indulgence

It was a really long unseasonably hot afternoon and although Rob was really riding strong, I was beginning to wonder if I had enjoy juice to make the Bridge.  My mind was willing, but my legs felt like anchors.  Just when I was feeling about done, we began a long, steep descent to Fairfax.  We hopped off our bikes to walk the stretch through town and chatted with all kinds of people.  We always enjoy walking through the small towns as a way to meet locals and to soak in the town atmosphere.

The bike culture in the area is outstanding.  Signage about giving riders space, well signed bike routes and so many people on two wheels.  It was just what we needed to recharge the batteries.  We received all kinds of honks, waves and thumbs up as we made our way through town.  We stopped at a little store for a Popsicle break, and a young man approached us.  He said that he saw our panniers and just had to stop by.  He had cycled to Panama last year, and was eagerly saving money to fund his next tour.  We remarked on the local bike culture and he told us that this is the area where mountain biking was born.

Our route took us through Larkspur, Marin City and Sausilito....cute boutiques, restaurants, stores - many reasons to get off the bike and poke around.  As we rounded the corner in Sausilito we got our first, and unexpected glimpse, of the San Francisco skyline.  We were blown away!  We both let out a triumphant roar.  It must have been quite a roar, because a passing road cyclist pulled a U turn and came back to us to ask if we would like our picture taken.  What a great guy!

First view of the San Francisco skyline from Sausilito

As we cycled along this stretch, we were actually held up in traffic - not car traffic, but bike traffic.  You have to love gridlock in the bike lane!

We were so close to the bridge now that we had new found energy in our legs.  Just one more climb and we would be there.  And what a climb it was! We ascended 746 feet to the summit of Hawk Hill in the Marin Headlands of the Golden Gate National Recreation area.  The climb was worth every single bead of sweat as we took in panoramic views of the Golden Gate Bridge, downtown San Fran and the entire Bay Area.  SPEECHLESS!

Giggle of the day:

In true RJ fashion, we arrived at the scenic lookout overlooking the Golden Gate Bridge and hopped off our bikes in order to capture the moment with a picture.  Rob pulled out the camera, took a couple of fantastic shots...and then let out a 4 letter word.  The camera battery was dead!  Can you believe it.....  840 miles, 8 sets of brake pads, countless hill climbs, endless litres of water to arrive at our destination ......and a dead camera battery.  We both burst out laughing!  Luckily, we had our phone with us for emergency use, so we pulled it out and took the shot.

Things seem to come in threes, and so with the sun setting, we continued up Hawk Hill in search of the Hiker/Biker campsite.  We then met a group of cyclists who told us the campsite was full.  Dark was quickly approaching, and so it was time for Plan B.  Unfortunately, we didn't have a plan B.  It was then that Rob remembered one of our customers had done a similar tour and had given Rob their cue sheet.  Rob had thrown it in his pannier as an after thought.  We dug it out and found detailed directions to a hotel in San Fran.  With cue sheet in hand, head lamps on bright we made our way down Hawk Hill and across the Golden Gate Bridge in the dark!

Crossing the Golden Gate bridge in the dark

To say it was exciting is an understatement.  What a thrill.  With our headlamps shining brightly we negotiated our way through the city and found the Presidio Travelodge and fingers crossed hoped for a vacancy sign.  There was room at the Inn!  I suppose it was meant to be.

Last, but not least, we find ourselves in San Franciso....we have more than a week of vacation time left and a few pennies in our pockets...and so, we ask what would you do?

Manchester Bay to Bodega Dunes State Beach, California

Surfs up

Wednesday, May 14, 2014
Manchester Bay to Bodega Dunes State Beach
70 miles

It is hard to believe, but the high pressure system is holding and we woke up to another brilliant day.....sun, HOT and no wind.  We are pinching ourselves that we are getting this kind of weather in May.  Every day of sun feels like a bonus day.

As we left Manchester Bay, we cycled through rolling hills and farmland.  The rollers are always fun as you try to get enough speed on the down, to make it up the next up!  Sometimes successful....sometimes not, but always a thrill.

Rustic wood fences line the route

After a couple of hours in the country side we returned once again to cycle along the shoreline, listening to the sounds of seals barking.  There was very little traffic, so we could hear them for miles.  They sure had a lot to say.

We enjoyed a second breakfast at a bakery in Gualala (fun name to say!) and met a couple of Aussies who were cycling the route south to north.  We shared campsite advice and hill warnings with each other and of course talked endlessly about FOOD.

Today was another perfect day of riding.  I wish I was a real writer, able to capture the true beauty of the landscape we are travelling through. (pictures will have to suffice, but even they don't do it justice)  Each and every day brings something different, something amazing and almost always guaranteed to take your breath away.

I have always loved wildflowers, especially those found up in the high alpine meadows.  The flowers we have seen this trip have really captured my imagination.  How something so beautiful and delicate can grow in the harshest of conditions is intriguing.  Of course, I have had ample time to observe the flowers this trip due to my very slow uphill speeds.  In fact, if I was going any slower, I would be going backwards!

We have also been intrigued by the number of Eculyptus and Cyprus trees that have been planted along the road ways as wind breaks.  They create these amazing shade tunnels, a welcome relief during hot afternoons.  The Eculyptus also have a very distinctive smell that permeates the area.  Quite stunning.

We took a few minutes off our bikes to check out Fort Ross, a fort built in the 1800's by Russians and Eskimos to grow grain for Alaskan settlements.

The afternoon took us into range land - complete with cattle guards, which you really do not want to cycle over at speed.  We had to be careful as there were goats and cattle on the roadway.  Rob gave one poor old goat quite a scare.  (and the old goat was NOT me!)

Memories of prairie roadways - an unexpected cattle guard

The terrain for the afternoon reminded us of a race car track as we negotiated hairpin turns, winding roads, narrow shoulders, 100 foot drop offs and steep ascents and declines.  Magnificent and terrifying all at the same time.

During one particularly long climb, which we were hiking parts of, a young pair of cyclists caught up to us.  We pulled off and chatted, secretly wishing we had their legs of steel.  Sophie and Marie are cycling from Vancouver to San Francisco - they are rock stars and a lot of fun to boot!

Jane, Sophie and Marie admire the views and take a break from the climb

As we hit the final stretch to Bodega Bay we were treated to the afternoon surf show.  50 or more surfers were in the bay, trying to catch the perfect wave.  We pulled off and watched as they battled the sea.  The sea was winning!

Dinner finds us camping in the sand dunes at Bodega Bay......another great end to another great day.

Hiker/biker site at Bodega Dunes Campground

Giggle of the day:

For the last 3 days, we have been leap frogging with a SAG (support and gear) vehicle for the popsride.com (Pedal over Parkinsons).  Today, we finally met some riders from their group.  They are on a fundraising tour, cycling from Vancouver to San Diego.  We have felt a little embarrassed as each and every time they pass us, we are either eating or hiking up a steep hill.  They have never actually witnessed us riding our bikes.  They are a great group of guys, with a great cause and rumour has it their SAG vehicle has ice cold water and cookies......